A fast shutter freezes only that instant's light; leave the shutter open for seconds or minutes instead, and every bit of light that moved during that window stacks into one frame. The classic examples: car headlights and taillights stretching into streaks on a highway, or stars tracing arcs as the earth rotates.
Anything that doesn't emit or move stays put for the whole exposure and renders sharp — that contrast between the streaking and the static is the whole point of a long exposure. Shoot somewhere dark so the trails don't wash out against other light, and a tripod is non-negotiable since any camera shake blurs everything, not just the intended trails.
To fake it on a canvas, don't fully clear the frame each tick — paint a very faint translucent rectangle over it instead, so the previous frame fades rather than vanishes. Keep drawing a moving point on top of that and a tail naturally accumulates behind it.
When to use
Use it for night cityscapes, star trails, or silky-smooth water. In daylight you'll need an ND filter to cut the light enough to hold the shutter open that long.